Jon Morgan
Alpine Guiding
Alpine Climbing
Alpine Climbing
There’s nothing to beat an alpine dawn seen from on high. A fine reward for the early starts and long hours of effort required to climb these magnificent peaks. Such moments stay in the memory forever and are justification enough for any trip to the Alps. However, it’s not just the views that make the Alps a magnet for climbers. Great ridges and faces, fine summits and snow and ice all year round are an irresistible combination for those up to the challenge.
Private Guiding. A significant part of our alpine program involves custom itineraries for private clients. In the main summer season this is organised on a 5-6 day basis, but outside these times we specialize in long weekends and winter alpinism by personal arrangement.
Course 5 days 3:1 Intro £795
Dates 27Jun -3Jul 4 – 10 Jul 18 – 24 Jul 25 – 31 Jul 8 – 14 Aug 15 – 21 Aug
The perfect introduction to alpine mountaineering for UK hill goers seeking bigger challenges. This 5-day Chamonix based course has been carefully designed to teach the skills needed for climbing safely in glaciated terrain, and to help clients acquire the knowledge and confidence to operate independently. It also makes excellent preparation for tackling bigger objectives in the company of a qualified guide. Typical grades climbed during the week are in the range F to PD+.
6 days 3:1 Intro £925
Dates 3 – 10 Jul 24 – 31Jul 14 – 21 Aug
A wonderful weeklong hut tour, taking in remote high level peaks along the Swiss-Italian border. The week includes the best sections of the famous high-level route between Chamonix and Zermatt, in addition to adventurous ascents of rarely climbed summits in northern Italy. Typical grades climbed during the week are in the range F to PD+ .
5 days 2:1 Intermediate £995
Dates 11 – 17 Jul 1 – 7 Aug 22 – 28 Aug
This Chamonix based course is ideal for established UK climbers or those with some classic alpine experience, who want to learn new skills to take on bigger objectives. The training program focuses on acquiring safe and efficient climbing styles for different types of alpine terrain, as well as covering techniques for multi pitch abseil descents, route planning and crevasse rescue skills. The low guiding ratio allows for a tailored program and a wide choice of routes typically in the range PD+ to D.
6 days 3:1 Intermediate £925
Dates 10 – 17 Jul 31Jul-7Aug 21 – 28 Aug
A great chance to bag some of the biggest peaks in the Alps, all surpassing the magical 4000m mark. On this mainly Swiss based course flexibility is the key – as we select different objectives each year, allowing people to build up their tally of 4000ers. Routes are carefully selected to allow access to great summits without undue technical difficulty, typically in the range F to PD+.
2:1 6 days Intermd £1095
Dates 26Jun -3Jul 17 – 24Jul 7 – 14 Aug 28Aug-4Sept
The aim of this week is to make the ultra classic traverse of Mont Blanc via one of it’s more interesting lines of ascent – either the Trois Mont Blanc route from the Cosmiques hut, or the Italian route from the Gonella hut. We stick to a low guiding ratio all week so you can attempt other great routes in the PD-AD range, as we prepare for the big one! Chamonix based.
6 Days 2:1 Intermediate/Advanced £1195
Dates 31 July-7 Aug 21-28 Aug
If you thought alpinism was all about midnight starts and gaping crevasses, then think again – this is the holiday for people who dream about endless pitches of perfect granite under blue skies! Previous alpine experience is not essential, just the ability to second VS or above gives access to some of the finest ridges and face climbs in the Alps.
6 days 2:1 Advanced £1195
Dates 3 – 10 Jul 17 – 24 Jul 7 – 14 Aug
A superb week spent climbing some of the most sought after routes in the Alps on the harder 4000m peaks. These challenging climbs appeal to experienced mountaineers, looking to test both skill and stamina against the biggest summits. Typical grades for this alpine tour are in the PD+ to D range, depending on our chosen objectives.
6 Days 2:1 Advanced £1195
Dates 26 June-3 July 10-17 July 28 Aug-4 Sept
Ice couloirs, mixed routes, high alpine rock faces – all may be on the menu during this high-energy week for keen alpinists. With thousands of technical routes to go at and excellent uplift facilities, Chamonix Mont Blanc makes the perfect venue to really test and develop your alpine skills. Climbing at low ratios gives the flexibility to tailor each week, with typical grades in the range AD to D (possibly TD on rock).
Matterhorn/Eiger
Every alpinist dreams of climbing a world famous peak some day, and non come more renowned than the Matterhorn and Eiger. Both peaks are stupendous but serious undertakings requiring good weather and conditions. Working closely with the same guide all week gives you the greatest opportunity to target weather windows for a successful summit bid. For either mountain you need good fitness, previous alpine experience and good footwork.
5 Days 1:1 Advanced £1575
Meeting at our comfortable hotel in Zermatt, we prepare for an ascent of either the Hornli or Italian ridges. Both routes are long and committing days and dry conditions are required to safely reach the summit. Due to the difficulties and altitude involved, you must be pre acclimatised from the start (i.e. several days spent at altitude the week before).
5 Days 1:1 Advanced £1575
Dates 18-24 July then every week to 22-28 Aug inclusive
Meeting in Grindelwald, below the Eiger’s world famous north face, our program involves an acclimatisation climb before we attempt the excellent South Ridge or it’s harder counterpart the famous Mittelegi Ridge. Both are long and committing mountain days with high quality ridge climbing at Severe and Scottish III
6 Days 1:1 Advanced /Expert £1775
Dates 12-19 June 19-26 June 4-11 Sept 11-18 Sept
Above all other climbs, the alpine north faces hold a special status amongst mountaineers. Once the preserve of the elite, improvements in equipment and technique have now made many of these routes accessible to the regular alpinist. This specialist week appeals to experienced climbers looking for the full north face experience. Climbing at 1:1 throughout we will attempt routes of AD standard and above.
6 Days 1:1 Advanced/Expert £1775
Dates By arrangement
A week of one on one guiding with our core team, concentrating on ascents of the really big classics of the Alps. If you have a dream, with the fitness and ability to match – then this could be the year to make it happen. Careful planning allows suitable routes to be identified to match aspirations and conditions.
5-6+ Days £230 Guiding fee per day plus expenses
Dates By arrangement
Personally tailored itineraries to cater for private clients. If you’ve something particular in mind or are seeking ideas and inspiration, just drop us a line to discuss your ambitions.