Jon Morgan
Alpine Guiding
About
I am in my 30s and have been climbing and skiing for 25 years. I started on the gritstone outcrops of Derbyshire with
my father and family skiing in the 70s. Later I went to Sheffield University and got heavily involved in rock climbing, mountaineering and skied competitively. Over the next 10 years or so I went on 8 or so expeditions to countries including Peru, Chile, Pakistan, Greenland, Kyrzygstan, resulting in a number of first ascents, new routes and first ski descents. I have spent many summer and winter seasons in the Alps doing numerous classic routes, and lots of ski touring. Recent highlights with clients include Mt Blanc with ski descent, the Eiger, the Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Capucin, traverse of the Grandes Jorasses. I have led rock to E5, Scottish winter grade 7, Alpine ED2, French icefall 6, ski descents to 50 degrees. I am, however, equally at home and take great pleasure teaching introductory mountaineering, basic off piste technique and easy ski tours, intro ice climbing and rock improvers.
I studied medicine at University and worked as a doctor, when not in the hills, for 12 years. Most recently I worked as a Consultant Anaesthetist for 2 years in Sheffield, and have taught other doctors on trauma life support and resuscitation. I have been on several medical research expeditions looking at acute mountain sickness.
I moved to Chamonix in 2002 with my wife and 3 small children to pursue my lifelong passion of being in the mountains, and to stay close to the family.
